Home on the Reins

Story by Joy Ufford Parker

photos: Bob Woodall—FPI / Triangle C Ranch Bliss Meadows, on the South Fork of the Shoshone River in the Absaroka Mountains, couldn’t have a more perfect name.

     You haven’t seen the real West until you’ve viewed it from the top of a horse, with an alpine breeze ruffling your hair as your mount clip-clops along the trail.      Whether you’re a tenderfoot or experienced horseman, there are plenty of options to choose from, with mountain country outfitters offering trail rides that last anywhere from an hour to as many days as you can go without a shower.
     There are several noteworthy factors in choosing the trail ride that fits you. First of all, decide what country you’d like to see. There are outfitters in all the major towns like Jackson, Cody, Dubois, and Pinedale for a quick trip. Ranches in outlying areas and stables in Grand Teton and Yellowstone National Parks also supply riders with stock and guides.
     In less than an hour or two, the mountain ranges, alpine lakes, and geyser basins in the Greater Yellowstone Region can be brought right in front of your camera. But if it’s the flavor of the wilderness you’re after, consider a half-day or full-day trail ride. Many outfitters provide lunch trips, and some even cook up a steak over a campfire or whip up a Dutch oven dinner over red-hot coals.
     Also consider how long you can ride without getting too saddlesore, although it’s true that the aches and pains from a longer ride will ease up and vanish in a day or so, and you’ll have plenty of great memories and photographs to take home for your efforts. It never hurts to check and see if your lodging has a hot tub or masseuse on hand, too!
     For the adventurous, a pack trip just might fulfill those dreams of riding dusty trails probably first traveled by ancient Native American hunters stalking wild game. A pack trip (so-called because horses or mules are packed with all necessary gear) can last a night or even a week—the only limit is your stamina for a rustic backcountry lifestyle.
     The cost generally includes meals, tents, and some good old-fashioned entertainment under the stars. Spending a night in a grassy meadow, listening to horse bells clang and coyotes howl, is a surefire way to create a one-of-a-kind visit to Wyoming.
     For those who want to combine luxury with wilderness hospitality, there are first-class guest ranches throughout the region, where getting in a daily horseback ride is the norm. Some are extra-good at catering to the family, with special kids’ programs that let parents have a little time off for themselves.
     For guests wanting a day off from the saddle, these ranches usually offer fly fishing, square dancing, soaking in a sun-warmed pool or reading bestsellers in the shade of an old cottonwood tree. Keep in mind that reservations might be required, and many guest ranches request a three-night minimum stay.
     If you like the idea of the Old West but groan at the thought of actually riding a horse, there’s still hope for you.
     Finding an outfitter or ranch that meets your needs is as easy as opening the Yellow Pages to “Horse Rentals and Riding,” “Guest Ranches,” and “Guide Services.” Another option is to call the Wyoming Outfitter and Guide Association in Casper (307-265-2376) for a listing of its licensed members. Also, any outfitter worth his or her salt will give you as much help as they can—they live this life because they love being outside and on a horse, themselves.
     Finally, locals love to share their experiences and knowledge, so don’t be afraid to ask for their opinions and advice. Other sources of information include lodging activities desks, the local chambers of commerce, and national forest offices.
     So whether your hero is Buffalo Bill Cody, Wyatt Earp, or Annie Oakley, it’s a sure bet that just seeing the wide-open Wild West by saddling up and hitting the ‘Big Dusty’ will make for an unforgettable vacation.

     Joy Ufford Parker is a freelance writer living in Victor, Idaho, where she owns the White Horse Cafe.

     Here are a few tips to make the most of your horseback adventure.
     First, if you’re not “seasoned” for the saddle, wearing Lycra shorts, tights, or even panty hose under jeans keeps chafing of knees and legs to a minimum. And there’s a reason all those cowboys and cowgirls wear tight blue jeans—they won’t rub like loose-fitting pants will.
     Consider taking a couple of aspirin or ibuprofen tablets before and after your ride to keep aches and pains at bay. Drink plenty of water; we tend to dehydrate more rapidly at mountain country’s high altitudes.
     Bring along the essentials: rain gear, gloves, a hat to ward off hot sun, bug spray, water, and snacks. Weather can change in a moment’s notice in the mountains. Also bring binoculars or a camera with a good supply of film for the wildlife you can glimpse while on the trail. Moose, deer, and birds abound in the trees and meadows you’ll ride through.
     Notify the outfitter in advance of any dietary restrictions, allergies, or health problems before you head up the trail. And be aware that some kids and adults in your group might wear out a bit more easily than you will, so plan a ride accordingly.
     It never hurts you or your horse to get off and walk to ease stiffness, especially going downhill, when your weight shifts to the horse’s front quarters. Don’t gallop around unless you can handle a horse well, both for your safety and the horse’s. No waving arms and flapping coats, please— horses aren’t mindless machines, and they can be unpredictable when left to their own devices and imagination.
     The last tip? Relax! Sit easy in the saddle, go light on the reins, and leave the roweled spurs behind for the rodeo. Look around at where the horse is taking you and enjoy. Whether it’s a vibrant scarlet stand of Indian paintbrush or a breathtaking mountain landscape, things always seems to look better from the saddle. —Joy Ufford

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Copyright 2004 by FPI (Focus Productions, Inc)., P.O. Box 1930, Jackson, Wyoming 83001. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without written permission from the publishers.

Mountain Country is a free visitors’ guide published annually in May and distributed at hundreds of locations throughout Jackson Hole, Cody, and other regional communities. To receive a copy in the mail, send $5 to Mountain Country, P.O. Box 1930, Jackson, Wyoming 83001.

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Publishers: Bob Woodall & Wade McKoy, dba Focus Productions, Inc. (FPI)

Editors: Mike Calabrese, Wade McKoy, Bob Woodall

Art Direction & Ad Design: Janet Melvin

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