Award-winning Powder, Homespun Passion
Grand Targhee Resort
By Michael Pearlman
Photos by Wade McKoy
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| The Skyline embossed by the Grand Tetons, Bissell Hazen and Jeff Leger take a warm-up run before hiking Mary's Nipple. |
If Teton Valley, Idaho, is affectionately dubbed “the quiet side of the Tetons” by area residents, then skiing Grand Targhee Resort is nothing short of a quiet celebration. Resort officials need not boast of Grand Targhee’s attributes, because the blissful sound of skis gliding through powder does the talking for them.
Tucked out of sight at the end of a serpentine, six-mile road east of Driggs, Idaho, Grand Targhee waits to reveal itself until the next-to-last corner. Open slopes, forested glades, and stunning views await powder-loving skiers and snowboarders, who can utilize five chair lifts to access 2,395 vertical feet and 2,000 acres of varied terrain.
Targhee’s reputation is built on its bountiful snowfall and friendly atmosphere—with 500 inches of the fluffy white stuff annually, what’s there not to be friendly about? Winter storms wring out light, dry powder as they sweep in from the west and slam into Fred’s Mountain (one of the resort’s two peaks). With a base elevation over 8,000 feet, these storms often produce massive, top-to-bottom dumps. That, coupled with fewer skiers and plenty of powder stashes tucked in the trees, concocts a recipe for a full day of untracked powder runs.
Skiers and snowboarders who recognize these strengths have continued to award the resort with accolades. For the past two years Ski magazine named Targhee “No. 2 in the Nation for Snow” (just below heavy-hitter Alta), and this year placed Targhee in the “Top-10 for Value.”
Much of Targhee’s terrain is intermediate, although adrenaline-inducing cliff drops are a mere 15-minute hike from the top of the Dreamcatcher lift to a point formerly known as Mary’s Nipple. Bowing to its family friendly reputation—and the gods of political correctness—the resort cut “nipple” from the name last year. Resort signs now read simply “Mary’s,” but her previous appellation is still preferred by many.
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| Bissell Hazen claims first tracks off the backside. |
Targhee utilizes the adjacent Peaked Mountain to make the best use of two uphill machinations: snowcats and chair lifts. The high-speed detachable Sacajawea lift, installed in 2001, opened 500 acres to lift-service skiers, but left 1,000 acres and 2,800 vertical feet of untouched terrain to the resort’s daily cat-skiing operation. Last summer two new trails were cut, adding even more variety to the area, which generally offers good visibility even on bad weather days.
Skiers and snowboarders 14-years-old and younger can take advantage of full- and half-day kids’ programs. The Kids’ Club is for children up to five-years-old and offers supervised care, and a fun, creative experience. The older kids, dubbed Powderscouts, get the run of the mountain to ski with others their age. The popular terrain park has been upgraded for 2003 with additional rail slides, table tops, mailbox sliders, and other advanced terrain features, providing hours of fun for those interested in jumping and spinning.
Targhee’s base area offers all the amenities you might expect, with a refreshing lack of pretentiousness. The cafeteria, sandwich shop, rental shop, Trap Bar, and a variety of accommodations are all a few steps from the lifts.
“Skiing here is like coming home for the holidays; there’s a warmth and an intimate atmosphere that speaks to this place,” says resort spokeswoman Susie Barnett-Bushong. “We’re a place where friends and family have always felt welcome, and now we’re hosting the grandchildren of our original customers.”
A daily Jackson Hole/Targhee round-trip shuttle stops at many hotels in Jackson and Teton Village. Reservations must be made by 9 p.m. the night before. Call Alltrans at 733-9SKI.
Spending some extra time in Victor or Driggs can reveal the true “New West.” Both communities have managed to retain their ranching and potato-farming character while experiencing rapid growth in the past five years.
Along with the new residents came plenty of new businesses. Services ranging from ski rental and boot fitting, to simply buying a new pair of gloves, are easily found in these quaint mountain towns.
If you’re looking for alternatives to downhill skiing, Targhee and Teton Valley offer plenty of variety. Slope-side snow tubing and ice skating appear after 5 p.m. at the resort. Fifteen kilometers of Nordic trails are groomed at the resort base, while Teton Valley’s pathways network offers additional Nordic options. Snowmobile trips to Yellowstone National Park or the nearby Bighole Mountains are also available, as are dogsled rides and snowshoe tours.
Does all this sound exhausting? Then simply drop into the Dreamchaser Spa. Located at the base of the resort and expanded for 2003, the spa offers an extensive list of services, from deep tissue massage to herbal mud wraps. Director Lisa Smith-Batchen, one of the world’s top ultra-endurance athletes, can provide a customized program for small groups, families, or children.
Dining in Teton Valley offers a range of options, from pizza to steak. Drop by the Warbirds cafe at the Driggs airport for upscale dining options at affordable prices. The Knotty Pine in Victor regularly hosts live music in its living room-size bar for those with the stamina to keep on going after a day spent making powder laps.
“We’ve made an effort to collaborate with lodges, hotel rooms, and restaurants in Driggs,” Barnett-Bushong says. “We want the community as a whole to also reap the rewards of our business growing.”
Growth is definitely in Grand Targhee’s future. The recent approval of a long-sought-after land swap gives the resort 120 acres of Forest Service land adjacent to the base area. Future development will result in a broader variety of lodging, restaurants, and retail shops.
One thing that won’t change, though, is the resort’s homey atmosphere and quality skiing. And that’s just the way the skiers—and the Targhee community—wants it. a
Dedicated skier Michael Pearlman is the sports editor of the Jackson Hole News&Guide. When not at his desk, you might find him at Grand Targhee lapping Mary’s Nipple.
The Jackson Hole Skier is a free visitors’ guide published annually and distributed at hundreds of locations throughout Jackson Hole, Cody, and other regional communities. To receive a copy in the mail, send $5 to Jackson Hole SKier, P.O. Box 1930, Jackson, Wyoming 83001.
Copyright 2004 by FPI (Focus Productions, Inc)., P.O. Box 1930, Jackson, Wyoming 83001. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without written permission from the publishers.
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