Pumping Adrenaline into the Comfort Zone
White Pine Ski Resort
By Joe Wilhem Jr.
Photos by Fred Pflughoft
Nestled at the foot of the Wind River Mountain Range in the Bridger-Teton National Forest, the White Pine Ski Resort provides a gorgeous setting for skiers and snowboarders of all ability levels. The prices are reasonable, the atmosphere unintimidating, and the fun factor as high as the Winds themselves.
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Dwarfed by its northern neighbors (Jackson Hole Mountain Resort and Grand Targhee), this intimate ski resort near Pinedale, Wyoming, prides itself as the place where ski buddies can always meet at the end of a run. And unlike the bigger ski areas, a $24 lift ticket buys full-day access to over 25 trails.
While White Pine’s ski runs seem to sprawl over Fortification Mountain, the trail layout is carefully designed to keep beginners in their comfort zone while also pumping adrenaline through the veins of the experts. Two triple chairs carry skiers up the hill side-by-side, so chair riders often race each other. The Little Spirit lift runs about 1,000 feet from the base and accesses the beginner terrain, while the Great Spirit lift travels to the top of the peak’s 9,500-foot elevation.
A virtual gold mine of uncluttered slopes, White Pine offers everything a skier could want: cruisers, bumps, jumps, steeps, and trees. Throughout the day, squeals, screams, and laughter resonate from kids and adults on their way to a powder addiction. Beginners revel on runs like Coyote, Quail, Lynx, and Porcupine, while black-diamond trails await skiers at the summit.
Those who’ve just come from sea level and don’t quite have their ski legs yet might try Bonneville or Fremont. These trails connect with some beginner and intermediate runs near the bottom, so skiers can take a little bit of a breather before reaching the base.
But if you’re ready for expert terrain from top to bottom, keep traversing to the west and try Pipestone, Whiterock, or Lost Eagle.
Hucksters love Lost Eagle on a powder day, and the landings stay soft even a day or two after a storm. A bedrock-size boulder sits in the middle of the trail and offers 20-to-30 foot launches. This boulder feature and many others are perfect for honing one’s air skills.
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Folks hailing from the Northeast should try Steve’s Run. This expert trail is similar to the tight, tree-lined corridors which run down many Vermont ski hills. A pair of old-school 220s would probably touch the trail’s edges. Ski down Steve’s Run about 50 yards and hang a right if you’re looking to explore the trees. The top section of the woods is wide open and leaves room for some slips, but closer to the bottom the woods start to reach out for you.
For those intermediates ready for the next step, slide past Steve’s Run to Temple. This black-diamond trail is steep, usually bumpy, and a good place to properly assess one’s skills.
The east side of the mountain is a great playground for all skiers: parents who just picked up their kids from ski school after sneaking in a few runs by themselves, kids racing their buddies, beginners who are trying a top-to-bottom run, or people worn out from a long, fulfilling day on the hill. All sizes and shapes of snow sliders can be seen cruising Fremont, Bonneville, and Wind River. Kids have a knack for finding the little trails radiating through the trees off these runs, and the only way adults know where their children are is by hearing the laughs and the joyous screams echoing through the forest.
After a long afternoon or day on the slopes, skiers can relax in the three-story lodge at the base of the ski hill. Burgers, sandwiches, soup, and chili help skiers re-light the fire inside while looking up the hill and selecting the next runs to tackle. A reasonable lunch of a burger, fries, and drink costs hungry winter warriors a little over $7.
“We have tried to keep the experience here at White Pine affordable,” said resort president Stuart Thompson. “A family of four can come up for the day and spend a little over $100. That’s not easy to find at a lot of ski areas.”
For folks who prefer a little slower pace—and skinnier skis—White Pine offers 35k of cross-country ski trails, over half of which are groomed for an easy kick-and-glide session. These trails also provide a doorway to unlimited backcountry access in the Wind River Range, and the resort offers guided backcountry touring, both day use and overnight trips.
On the other hand, for folks who like an engine attached to their skis, the area around Pinedale is prime snow machine country. The Continental Divide Snowmobile Trail runs near Pinedale and offers sled-heads 345 miles of varied terrain. Snow machine rentals are available in town and novices who want to tour the area can also hire a guide.
Don’t pass up the chance to take in the hospitality of Pinedale, the largest town in Sublette County and only ten miles down Fremont Lake Road. The town offers a wide variety of lodging options, from national chain motels, to cabins, and bed and breakfasts. Reservations are recommended. Food options are also vast. Mexican, German, Italian, American Continental, and local fast food (sorry, no McDonald’s) offer something to suit anyone’s appetite.
Local events provide visitors with a unique array of diversions. In December the Pinedale Snow Explorers host the One Lunger, a marathon snow machine race held for antique snow machines on an oval track in nearby Cora, Wyoming. Come February, ice fishing tournaments on Fremont and Half Moon Lakes bring out the fisherman in anyone who owns an ice auger and a warm pair of boots. At the beautifully creative Green River Valley Winter Carnival, folks with a penchant for the unusual get a chance to compete in ski joring, arm wrestling, and dog sled races. There are also plenty of events for children.
Famous dog teams and mushers come to Pinedale during the annual International Pedigree Stage Stop Dog Sled Race held throughout Wyoming in late January. The town and surrounding communities turn out en mass to watch these pros as they celebrate the tradition of dog mushing.
The White Pine Ski Area and the town of Pinedale help provide a little something for everyone out to enjoy the winter wonders of Wyoming. So do yourself a favor and wander down to the little cowboy town at the foot of the Winds. I guarantee, you won’t regret it. a
Joe Wilhelm Jr. is trying to escape his ski bum tendencies and become an adult, but the industry keeps pulling him back in. While trying to satisfy his inner “Squirrel Murphy,” he has written for several newspapers, SKIING and Powder magazines.
The Jackson Hole Skier is a free visitors’ guide published annually and distributed at hundreds of locations throughout Jackson Hole, Cody, and other regional communities. To receive a copy in the mail, send $5 to Jackson Hole SKier, P.O. Box 1930, Jackson, Wyoming 83001.
Copyright 2004 by FPI (Focus Productions, Inc)., P.O. Box 1930, Jackson, Wyoming 83001. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without written permission from the publishers.
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